Building a Darkroom
From Dreams to Reality… Building a Darkroom
If you like shooting in black and white and wish you could do your own developing and printing, you needn’t be intimidated by it. If you’ve outgrown the bathroom as a darkroom and want to build a more suitable space, here are some general guidelines. Once you are aware of the requirements for a working darkroom, it’s only a matter of putting together a plan and the whole thing falls into place. Having a little knowledge of hand tools comes in handy and there are plenty of do-it-yourself books on home improvement that are extremely helpful.
Determining Layout
When planning a darkroom layout the main thing to remember is: what is the function of the darkroom being built? Is it for making prints, developing negatives, toning? Each of these functions has different requirements. For this setup I have chosen to create a space large enough for developing negatives as well as printing using a 4x5 enlarger.
The first thing to understand is that for any darkroom, the processes need to be separated. In other words, all printing activities should be kept on what is called the “dry side” and all developing activities on the “wet side”. Other wise there is potential for contamination of materials.
Making a list of all the physical objects to be utilized within the walls of the darkroom should be the initial task. A basic floor plan can be determined by measuring; a) the width and length of the table that the enlarger will be placed on, b) the width and length of the sink for use with trays or developing tanks, and c) how much walking space is required between the two. This can be done on a sketch pad, graph paper, a drawing program or in a spreadsheet. Using the drawing tools in a spreadsheet such as MSExcel® lets you move things around with ease. It’s especially nice if you don’t have a drawing program.
Determining Size
Once the basic layout has been determined, the actual amount of space available, the equipment that will be used and the need for convenience must be determined. This would include actual measurements of work benches, tables, sinks and cabinets, a sink for running water etc. The resulting location/placement is then determined by the placement of permanent structures such as water heaters, support columns, chimneys, furnace, washer & dryer, sink etc. For this setup, running water inside the darkroom wasn’t an option. Having running water inside the walls of the darkroom isn’t necessary, but it should be a consideration. Make it comfortable. A lot of time will be spent in there!
Basic Materials & Assembly
With the layout and dimensions now on paper, the actual building can begin. Because standard ‘pressboard’ comes in 4x8 sheets, the studs need to be 4’ apart. (Be sure to check with any building codes regarding this. For a small home darkroom, it might be possible to get around the rules, as long as there are no load-bearing walls being knocked out). Assemble the frame on the floor, securing the header & footer to the vertical studs. Once it is assembled and secured with nails, raise it and attach it to the ceiling (beams), then anchor the footer to the floor using 3/8” x 3” lag-screws. For drilling into concrete, use a “hammer-drill” and a carbide drill bit.
Once the frame is up, the door and the 4x8 pressboard (or plywood) sheets can be hung. Hanging a door by yourself isn’t hard if you use shims underneath while installing the hinges. Rather than trying to install the typical door hardware, an eyebolt & hammock hook can be placed on the inside of the door which will prevent it from accidentally opening.
It is important to make sure there are no light leaks. After the walls are up, the door is in place and the holes plugged, use a caulking gun for the seams between the studs and the pressboard. Quilt batting (stuffing) can be used to fill the gaps where any holes for wiring were made. Black fabric can be stapled over top of the batting for extra protection and to keep the batting from falling out. Self-adhesive foam weather stripping should be used around the door frame. Check the room by turning off all the lights and stand there for five minutes or so. If any light is seen through the cracks, they must be sealed.
Ventilation is absolutely necessary. Because it is an enclosed room and full of chemical fumes, there must be a method of bringing in fresh air as well as removing the fumes. The best method for this is to position a fan at the bottom of one of the walls (not the top), so that any fumes will be removed from the air. Also an intake vent/screen should be placed on the opposite wall to bring in fresh air when the fan is running. A bathroom ceiling fan will work, although it can be a bit noisy.
For this particular setup the layout is fairly simple, being limited only by the size and physical properties of the room. For the “dry side”, a 6’ x 30” solid folding table is adequate for two 4x5 enlargers, two timers, an Ohm Meter and a paper safe, plus a small area for hanging negatives to dry. The table the enlargers will be placed on must be solid and level. Otherwise there is a chance of the results not being sharp.
Another consideration is the height needed for the size of the enlarger when fully extended. By placing the enlargers between the beams in the ceiling, the full 50” of the enlarger can be utilized, making it possible to make very large prints.
For the “wet side”, a 6 ˝’ x 32” x 3” stainless steel sink rests on a sheet of press board with a sawhorse supporting the middle. The pressboard is then resting on two horizontal cross pieces between the vertical studs of the walls. This particular sink is long enough & wide enough to hold five 11x14 trays or six 4x5 tanks for developing sheet film. Since there is no running water inside the room, one of the trays can be used as a ‘holding tray’ until it is time to wash the prints. For this setup, it is conceivable that a sink could be replaced by using saw horses and a sheet of plywood. The final wash is then done outside the darkroom in the sink near the washing machine.
The final additions (electrical and ventilation) are made after the room is finished. Electrical outlets, switches and light bulb sockets, as well as ventilation, are a very important part of the darkroom layout. Besides the enlarger, benches, sink, shelves, cabinets etc., safelights need to be installed. The standard distance for safelights is about 4’ away from trays and enlarging easels. Outlets for the enlarger/s and overhead lights are all essential parts of the layout. Having an overhead light that can be turned on and off using a pull chain is very handy, especially in the dark. Implementing switches at the entrance also alleviates the need to walk back and forth to turn off the lights. If possible, have your darkroom on a separate circuit breaker. This will reduce the chance of your enlarger light dimming when the furnace or refrigerator kicks on. Since all darkrooms are different the number and placement of these receptacles will vary. But having more than you need is always better.
Future Changes/Additions
If I had it to do over, or build in the future, I think I would start by putting in a better ventilation system. My mistake was putting the fan above the trays. It should be below, near the feet. I’d also put in a vent to bring in fresh air. At the moment, any time I want to use ‘smelly’ chemicals, I go outside the darkroom where there is more air circulation.
I’d install a switch that turns off all the lights in the basement (other than in the darkroom) as a precaution against any light leaks. Also, the pull chords on the lights are a real convenience.
And finally, I’d put in cabinets or shelves for storing trays under sink.
Materials List
The list of materials could go on forever, depending on your needs. Here are the basic materials for the room and to get started.
Ortho’s Home Improvement Encyclopedia
2x4s (studs for walls)
4x8 sheets of pressboard or plywood for walls
Lag-Screws to secure frame to floor
Nails
Paint for walls
Wiring
Solid Table for enlarger
Sink or platform for trays
Cabinet or Shelves for storage
Ventilation System
Summary
Building a darkroom isn’t difficult. Knowing the essentials, putting a plan on paper and having the proper tools are all you need to build a successful darkroom. It doesn’t have to be fancy or state-of-the-art, but it does need to have certain key elements; i.e., it needs to be light-tight, to have a designated wet-side and dry-side, ventilation and proper lighting. There are many sources for darkroom equipment these days with so many people going digital. I hope you are inspired by reading this and will have the desire to fulfill your dreams and carry on the tradition.
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